Saturday night we had some solid surf here (accompanied by 20*F temps and hard offshores). I went up to shoot some pics of my son and daughter surfing. There was a guy out there in his 60s getting some good rides in the overhead and hollow conditions. Got a few shots of him. He was getting in easily and surfing well on the board he was riding. When he came in I got a look at what he was riding. It was a Dick Brewer 90s style semi-gun shape. Looked to be about 7'6"-8'0. Rockered out, narrow and thin. Been a long long time since I've seen someone riding a board like this. Seeing how easily he was getting into waves has me really rethinking my approach to my personal boards for bigger days. I've been taking off under the lip and quite frankly as I'm getting older and struggling with injuries its been getting harder and harder. Going wider and thicker with my personal boards has been counterproductive when the waves are hollow. It may be time to revisit some of those 90s semi-gun shapes.
