Hey thinkin about making my second board an SF OB board to help me survive the fall/winter season when it is breaking in the 4-6ish foot range. Doesn't sound bad but OB can do alot of things an a day like that.
My paddling isn't as strong as it once was as I live about an hour from the beach, so I my primary goal is for this thing to be an easy paddle that can still fit in the pocket on a steeper hollow wave late take off waves and be able to duck dive somewhat, at least smaller sets. Turning is pretty secondary to those things. I also weight 245 lbs on a good day, so that is a big factor. I am thinking of a gunny egg, 8'6" x 21.5" x 3.75", really want to get a ton of foam in the center and thin out the rails so that its not a total clunker. In good point break conditions I'm fine on my 6' fish, but the currents and shifting peaks at OB drive me crazy, been close to giving up on that spot a few times, despite the random super fun sessions I've had there over the years. Plus I dunno if its just me but it feels like the fall/winter clean conditions rarely break in a reasonable under double overhead range anymore.
Anyways, with that said, I am interested in any design pointers folks may have, particularily when it comes to rocker profiles for this type of board. What is the least forward rocker I can use that is still functional in these waves? How much tail rocker? What kind of blank would you recommend? My last board was a hollow wood pill, so this would my first foamie. Thanks for reading!
Aaron