There's a gap in my quiver so I'm planning a new build. I'm 5'9" @ 155#, lower intermediate skills surfing north jersey. The longest board I have is an 8'2" high-rocker swallow tail. High rocker, pulled i profile, harder rails running forward, domed deck, and concave > double concave > vee out the back. It's working well as a quad on curling shoulder to overhead sets. My bottom turn is feeling better, I can pigdog it a bit, and I even managed a few cutbacks this week. It's a board I have to work it through turns.
The gap is this: on days when it's 4-6' more sloping I'd rather just rip down the face fast. On days with multiple-swell/inconsistent days, I want to chase a wave down and its a slower paddle than I'd like. On days when it's on-shore wind/crumbling, the rails get knocked around causing it to teeter a bit. I can still ride it but sometimes I just want to cruise. I have a 6'9" low-rocker single fin egg but sometimes I just feel too tired to paddle it around. I've also been inspired by Joel Tudor so some rear footwork for turning would be cool. So, I plan to buid a longboard with these specs:
- Low rocker
- Shortened rail line/straighter profile with wide point dead center
- Flat bottom contour > slight vee starting 2/3 back, peaking just in front of single fin, then flat out the back
- Toilet bowl nose, rounded pin tail, setup with a Greenough 9.75" 4A
- Flat deck
I'd like to ask your advice regarding length and thickness. I feel that with my height and weight, a 9'0" is too long. My thoughts are that a full profile less foiled 8'2", using the 84SP blank works here. The other option is a thinner 9'0" using the relaxed rocker in the 94B blank. The 93Y rocker is higher. Thoughts?
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