November 19, 1967. Is only one day, in the life and times of Bill Thrailkill. This in response to a request for some insight into some of the experiences that have shaped my perspective on surfboards and surfing. Google up the date, and the name, Eddie Aikau. You'll get some perspective, on the subject of this post. The day started with an early call from Buzzy Trent, telling me Val Valentine had called, telling him Sunset was 15 + feet, and to come on over before it closes out. Buzzy picked me up, and we headed for the North Shore, with our boards on his VW Bug. From the crest of old Kunia Road, the first view of the North Shore was jaw dropping. White water to the horizon. Once at Sunset, we rode the rip out, to get to the outside lineup. It really didn't work all that well. We got steamrollered, not by a 20 foot wave, but by a 20 foot wall of soup, in the rip ! That resulted in me getting a chin cut, that took 12 stitches to close. Next stop Waimea. Buzzy called it ''The largest that Waimea can be ridden, before it closes out.'' I was a bit reluctant to paddle out, with my chin laid open, and an injury to my left leg, from the day before, at Sunset. Buzzy described it as ''solid 25 feet, with 30 foot sets.'' He called the smaller 20 foot waves, ''dribblers.'' Well, I rode two of the 25 foot waves, before catching a dribbler to come in on. In my condition I was not comfortable going anywhere near the 30 foot set waves. Several days later, I went to a doctor, about my left leg. I had trouble walking, and in the water could not kick my left leg to swim. After getting an X-Ray, I was informed by the doctor that I had been surfing with a broken knee. This on a 10' 7'' x 21.5 '', 38.5 pound gun, with no leash. Waimea was never ''fun'' for me. Fun for me was 15 foot Sunset, 15 foot Laniakea, or 20 foot Makaha. I just never warmed up to Waimea. Well, that is just one of my numerous adventures in surfing. At the time it seemed normal. In retrospect, I wonder what the hell I was thinking.
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