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HANSEN 50/50? QUESTIONS

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ALOHA BRADDAS AND SISTAS,

HAVE COPPED A HANSEN 50/50? CARDIFF AND HAVE SOME QUESTIONS.

BOARD HAS VERY KNIFEY RAILS AND A BOLT THRU FIN THAT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS MODIFIED TO TAKE ONE BOLT VERSUS 2 (3)?

SMALL HANSEN LOGO NEAR TAIL WHICH AN OLD COLLECTOR BUD OUT IN KONA TOWN ONCE TOLD ME DESIGNATED THE BOARD AS A TEAM BOARD. 

CANT FIND A # NUMBER OR ANYTHING ON THE BOARD.

CAME OUT OF SOUTH CENTRAL FLORIDA AT SPUNKYS SURF SHOP. BOUGHT IT OFF A GUY UP HERE IN NEW SMYRNA. 

STOKED ON THE BOARD. RIDING IT. JUST LOOKING FOR INFORMATION NOT QUESTIONS ABOUT HOW MUCH I PAID FOR IT. 

ANYONE WITH INFORMATION TO SHARE ? MANY THANKS,

BUDDY HAOLE.


Skil belt rub

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Paging Pete! Hahah (you need a bat signal haha) 

or anyone that’s had this happen before. 

Just picked up another skil and it’s got a belt wander.  I spin it one way and I wanders towards the planer body, spin it the other way and it wants to come off the Pullys. I just swapped out the bearings but I could see evidence of the belt rubbing before I did this. 

Shafts don’t have any (visual) wobble to them (meaning they are straight). I suppose I can chuck em up and stick a dial on them but lack of visual wobble seems like they should be fine. 

I Spin the motor pully and it did the same thing (thought maybe the teeth were bad) 

What am I missing? 

Bad belt?  

I pulled up a parts diagram and I got everything in there haha. 

Seems like they are out of alignment some how??? 

SOS!! 

Need Suggestion

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I watched some surfing videos and enjoyed a lot.. Deep in my heart.. I felt some sparks and thought If I could do such things.. Immediately I run a search for buying a surfboard and eventually I got one where they have top 10 wakesurfing boards.  But the sad part is I literally don't know how this works.. how can i learn surfing?? I really wanna go to the seas for surfing... atleast one time in my life.. 

Surfboard CAD files wanted

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Hey I have built a CNC router in my garage to cut a few boards just for myself and friends (nothing commerical). I am currently trying to learn the akushaper/shape3d software but am struggling a bit.

Is there anywhere (except the shape3d website) with a bunch of surfboard files I can look at and learn from? I have been on the shape3d website and downloaded and few and played around with them but an wondering if there is more out there?

Not here to steal anyone's shapes or anything just trying to learn and I'll share every board I design and make.

FCS 2 finbox for twin fin

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Hi guys!

Im shaping a surfboard at the moment and trying to fnd information about what fin box i need to order. Im shaping a twin fin so only need to two finboxes but not sure if i need to buy 0*, 3*,5* or even 9* finboxes. These are the fins i have bought in advance (not smart) and its the old fcs finsystem. Would still like to use fcs 2 finboxes in case i want to buy other fins.
Already thanks!!! 

How many layer cloth with piece of fabric on deck

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hello there,

i wanted to know how many layer of cloth do you use for deck lamination in the case that you want to put a piece of fabric like pareo on the whole surfboard deck.

thanks.

Eric.

Flat vs double concave

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Question for the physicists and hydronauts

From what I’ve seen the single to double concave seems to be the most widely used bottom in shortboards and even most Grovelers .

it is my understanding that the single up front creates instant lift/speed while the double maintains that lift while adding an element of control to turn once surfing with some velocity, eliminating the “stickiness” of a single.

however I was thinking, can’t all the functionality of the double concave be achieved with a flat bottom after a single concave? You eliminate the inherent  “stickiness” from concaves that you compensate for when shaping in a double. Also, you’d maintain some speed from a front single concave through the elimination of drag created by the middle spine/vee in a double concave.

could somebody smarter than I please school me as to why the the single to double is so conventional?

shape 3d Help needed

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Hello everyone,

Hope you are al well and making beautful surf craft.

I have have been  hand shaping hanplanes out of wood for sometime now but would like to ask if any of you would be willing to help me design my handplanes in shape 3D?

Currently I have four designs. 

If any of you could help me with this I would be very greaful.


First build XPS thruster hack job

nubster rear fin size

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Wanted to ask what you think about the size of a nubster rear fin on a fish style board. I did a hack job to an old board that I had sitting around for a long time. Converted a 6' stubby outline to a 5'6" fish. The board had sidebites added over the years, so I tried it with the existing fin plugs. I planned to add a set of FCS plugs to move the fins up and use large keels, so I cut out the C5 plug and made it all FCS. Havn't foiled the keels yet, so I just stuck other fins in there for now.

I still have have the old single fin box, so I can add a center fin if I want, but I think something really small might be the right choice. I hacked out a really small nubster thingy from a piece of left over G10 but I'm thinking it's too small to add much to the mix. Haven't ridden it since I added the FCS plugs and made the tiny fin.

Wondering what you think is the minimum size to have any affect?

Beak nose feedback please - Shaping

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I'm shaping myself a gun and I've played around with different rockers and foils a bit. But I've never shaped a gun with a beak nose.

I like the beak nose boards that I've tried for a few reasons, One is that they generally foiled with full rails and a lot of volume in the front 1/3rd of the board, and that had made the board a good paddler and good for getting into waves as well.

So it isn't just for asthetic purposes that I'd like to try a beak - They have a functional purpose also.

The thing I'm wondering is how much nose rocker can a board take before the added volume of a beak nose starts working against you?

This is for an 8' gun(ish) board. I'm not a heavy guy - about 165 lb with my suit on.

The blank I'm using has about 6-3/4" nose rocker, but I could reduce that by altering the bottom curve a bit.

One gun that I shaped in the past had about that much nose rocker and I left the nose fairly thick - That was a mistake because it was terrible to duck dive.

So I want to just get some opinions on this before I make my final decision.

Thanks

Adjusting surf flippers

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I bought these LEBLON fins from the guy who runs Garage Handplanes in Avalon, Sydney.

They’re best flippers because they have a huge blade with side runners, the foot pocket is generous and soft and the heel strap is thick and sturdy.

 Only problem is that it’s 2 sizes too big. 

I could pack the toes but that would pull my foot out of the pocket so I decided to beef up the heel strap to push my foot into the foot pocket.

i laminated several strips of black EVA and cut them to fit on the inside of the heel straps.

 Then wrapped the insert and heel strap together with a strip of yellow EVA on each side.

 Now they fit and float better. Sadly LEBLON stopped making these fins but they give so much thrust in one kick.

Sun damaged hot coat

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I picked up an epoxy SUP for cheap from a buddy awhile back. At the time, I didn't have a spot in the garage for it, so it lived on my surf rack for about a month (or more).
In that time the bottom got pretty sun damaged.

Fast forward to now, I'm fixing a bunch of dings and cracks on the board, and figured it'd be a good time to sand down the bottom and reapply a hot coat.

There is a bunch of tiny white "blisters" and of course the edge of the peeling resin.
How much do I need to sand so those don't show on the new hot coat?
I already hit a good portion with some 500 grit (second picture), but do I need to be more aggressive and get rid of the entire original hot/gloss coat? 

Thanks!

Can You Identify This Board Logo? Who shaped it?

World's Shittiest Hot Coat?

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I poured my first epoxy hotcoat last night, and may now qualify for the World's Shittiest Hot Coat Award.
I could probably chalk this one up to:

  • Using spray paint on the deck.
  • Poor surface prep.
  • Using a shitty foam brush.
  • Never performing a hotcoat in real life.

But then I wouldn't be able to blame anyone else. :D 

This is my standup/prone board that I do want to get back on the water.
So, where I go from here... 
I'm thinking I could sand all the way back down till the whole surface is uniform smooth. I think there's enough coverage that once it's uniform I could go up through the grits, then polish or use a floor sealer.
Or if there's not enough coverage, get a real brush, and run a test before doing another hot coat.

Or... Are there better options I should consider?


One out 3 Skil 100'S would be nice 2 would be better

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These were my hopefully lifetime supply of Skil 100 planers.The fire left me with these. .My daily driver is completely toast. One of them the trigger felt good  everything turned nice cord was "shortened". Taped together a test cord VAROOM it worked.  The other one is in similar condition but fire may have gotten further in to it..overall in decent shape considering what they went through but probably going to need some help to get em shaping again.. 

speed coat and hot coat

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Aloha there,

I heard some poeple doing a speed coat (squeege coat) and then hot coat. Do you do that with polyester resin ? If yes, do you sand the speed coat before applying the final hot coat?

Thanks.

Eric.

Thrailkill Pig Build Thread

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Yeah, I have a lot of nerve.  I'm building a Thrailkill Pig with Bill's help.  It's a blend of some pigs he has shaped over the years and in so doing has adapted outlines and other dims from some of the best out there.

I have spoken with Bill many times over the years about pigs.  I've attempted a few but was always disappointed with the look of the outline.  Greg Loehr shaped an 8-0 for me decades ago and I loved it, but didn't realize if was a pig.  Doh.  So this time Bill sent me an outlying in a mailing tube along with some instructions.  I'm nervous about this.  But here I am.

I have a Marko molded 9-0 LB blank that has been calling my name for a year of more.  After mounting and trueing the outline template and realized I would have to put the template nose to the tail of the blank.  BIll has a funny anticdote about this trick.  It made me feel like one of the old pig shapers.  For about a minute.  Ha.

Anyway, here are a few pictures to get this started.  Wish me luck.

Note in the one pic the sanding tool I'm using to true the outline. The hard rubber pad is just flexible enough to bend slightly and allow the tool to take off the high points on the outline.  The Clear Spray is used on the edge after I've finished trueing to beef up the edge.  I may use this template again and want to be sure it is solid.

Final Skil Planer Exhibit / Summer 2020 at SHACC

Performance / Flex / Lightness / Rocker - Theory Inquiry

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Years ago, my first shape was a longboard that was 9'0" x 22" x 2-3/4" thick, It had 3" of tail rocker and 4" NR - Just a fairly typical longboard shape and about what someone would expect for a guys first shape.

I glassed it with 2X4oz deck and a 4oz bottom. It was a 1+2 with a 7" trailing fin and a pair of 3-1/2" front fins .

That board lasted 1 season and I repaired all the heel dents in it at the end of the summer by glassing a deck patch over the back half... 

That board out performed any other board I've shaped since... Putting a tail patch on it killed the magic.

Before I started shaping, I did glassing and shapers would tell me that  a lightweight glass job can make a mediocre shape outperform a technically perfect shape with a heavier glass job.

I've been trying for 25 yrs to shape and glass a board that I can surf like that first one. That board was flat rail to rail with a slight amount of vee in the tail and I've been trying concaves and rocker increases and different fin placements and even a board that is 1-1/2 ft shorter won't surf as well when I give it a durable glass job.

I had a 2-3/4" thick twinzer fun board that almost did as well.

So I'm about to shape a new board and glass it light, this time. 

Here's the question - With the newer blanks having more natural rocker, How much tail rocker is too much?

A lot of the performance expectation that I have boils down to speed in the 2nd half of a cutback. If I can come out of a cutback with as much speed as I had going in, then I have a board that I can do pretty much anything else I want with.

 I'm surfing 8' fun boards now in small surf because I'm 65 yrs old and the other guys all have longboards and SUPs so I have to surf a big board to hold my own.

I can get as much as 4" of tail rocker out of the blanks that I have. But would that be too much TR for an 8' board that's glassed light enough to have some flex to it?

I'm looking forward to replies - It's always good to hear from guys who have more experience than I have.

Thanks

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