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Just some good shit!!!
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An olpharts dream
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Can I protect epoxy & Eps from a hot car with poly resin?
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In short, I guess I'll have to buy a thermometer.
However...
I used 1lb Eps from a building reclaimers and had to glue parts together. This was a lot of effort but meant an almost free blank. This was useful for practicing.
The experience with epoxy this time was not as good as last time I used it. In general it was much, much slower this time. Here's the 2 compared. In both cases the epoxy was weighed for mixing, hand mixed counting to 100.
Board #1:
- lammed in Humidity 70% on most days of the lam. I think approx 25 degree heat in a workshop next to an air conditioned area
- cheap Chinese epoxy used... Unknown brand
-seemed to set hard after each day. No problems of this kind
-painted over the top for uv (but it looked awful)
Board #2:
- lammed in New Zealand
- humidity... A dry day in the first lam, sunny. on the 2nd lam very wet and it was cold overnight.
- epoxy from epoxyglue.com which seems to be the cheapest here
- painted Eps blank, only 1lb glued together
- took over a week to feel harder on the thumb test. Sped up slightly in a hotter car.
- only 2x 4oz each side. Should have done 3x 2 Oz in the top... Quite a thick hotcoat. No pigment used
I thought the epoxy in board #2 was set as it was harder than the week wait before after keeping it in a car.
Then unfortunately one day I forgot to leave the windows open. When I picked the board up it was warm but I didn't think *really* hot - nothing like as hot as a pickup truck bed. The board felt similar to how it was in the first week it was setting. I moved the board to a cool store room.
Now there's an area on the tail, the deck which is quite spongey with the thumb test. I think the Eps underneath has melted...
In the one hand the actual lamination with epoxy went as well as poly. What suprised me this time has been the post curing. It's been a pain in the ass.
I'm now wondering what to do for my next board. Epoxy feels a bit risky now after this experience . Likewise Eps wasn't too bad to use but I'm not sure it was worth it.
The other thing is UV protection. I found the easiest thing is paint the blank and then go over with a non cut lap, non pigmented layer. Trying to do a pigment on a different board with poly ended up with streaks (weighed)...
So I think the easiest thing if wanting to play it safe would be:
-Paint a poly blank
-lam with UV poly, no merk and no pigment, 2x4oz top and bottom
-normal lam, no cut laps
If I'm spending money in a shaped blank though I would like to use Eps. In that situation I guess I could do:
- paint the blank (test some on a test piece)... Using 2lb EPS now and a proper Eps blank
- do a single 4oz lam with epoxy each side. No pigment, no cut lap. Fill coat it to be sure
- then, when the epoxy is still green to help the bond... Do the 2nd 4oz lam with uv polyurethane resin
- hotcoat with uv poly to finish
- give it a week in a hot but not really hot place to cure
This way hopefully the poly would protect the shape and speed things up but I can still use Eps.
I know it would be better to get a fully epoxy method sorted but this way might be a safer step towards that...?
Sorry for a very long post. I have so much to ask. The thing with epoxy is you think you've nailed and then something like this happens.
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Advice sought for long term tool storage
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Hi all,
I'm about to pack up my house and family and embark on an extended overseas journey - open-ended at this stage - and I'd really appreciate any advice the Swaylock's brains trust can share on the storage of my shaping tools. We'll be getting rid of the majority of our worldly goods before we go, but what's left will be stored in my shaping shed until we eventually return.
It's pretty much weather tight, and thankfully we live in a reasonably dry climate, but it's very dusty and might have the occasional rodent visitor.
I won't be taking any of my tools on the road, so will be storing everything in large sturdy plastic tubs with sealed lids. I'm most concerned about the smaller hand tools - the planes, spokeshave, surforms, microplane rasps, saws, chisels etc, many of which are old and well-made, so I want to give them as much protection from the elements as possible while I'm gone.
I was going to clean and oil all the blades before I leave, but what's the best oil to use and should I be wrapping the planes etc. in some kind of protective cloth - oilskin or something similar - for maximum impact?
Any and all advice gratefully accepted. We'll be leaving mid-April, first stop Spain...
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What is the best option to remove a broken fin box?
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Really sad that I had to end a great session today, after a nasty wipeout in some fairly heavy surf. My assumption was the leash was wrapped around the fin and when the leash got yanked tight, thats what did the damage. Fin is gone, and the box is broken in several spots, and the resin around it buckled up and sucked some water in :( its a 10 in. single fin box, and I was wondering if this was something I could repair myself or if I would be better off taking it in to the repair shop. I have looked into the ways to do it and the 2 that came up were routing out the old box (which seems like the better option) or cutting the sides out of the old box and trying to pull it out. Which with a 10in. single box I feel would remove a lot of foam to be desired. Any advice would be great, for now its sitting by the heater getting blasted.
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The Follow Button
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OK - this may seem like a dumb question, but what exactly does the blue "follow" button do at the bottom left corner of the first post on any given topic? You would think that by clicking on it, it would save that topic somewhere(?) grouped for easy reference at a later date just like years ago when we could save topics.
In the last few months, I've clicked on that button probably a half dozen times for subjects I'd like to reference again, and I can't find anywhere on the site that where they've been saved. I've clicked on "my account" in upper right corner, then clicked on "activities I'm following" on the right and all I get is either an error box or "no activities being followed".
Anybody out there know whats going on?
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The Modern HPSB. Can it be kept on Rail by the average joe?
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I watch and observe all riders hulls and the water flowing under them, and their feet and the wave below every time I surf, with what tests as still better than 20/20 vision.
It seems to me that the good guys, riding the most modern HPSB's 'models', rarely can throw down everything into bottom turn, and hold it, but instead tenatively initiate a turn, then modulate the power applied, to keep the board from skipping out, requiring a double or triple pump bottom turn, and then only once they get to open face, does the board seem to respond properly, as My eye/mindset/preconceptions deem appropriate to the conditions.
Perhaps I am stuck in more rail line of a longer boad holding a long powerful bottom turn, and the Shortest possible Skatey under the lip mindset of today requires an approach to a wave that is not visually pleasing to my 45 year old grumpy ass.
I guess the bottom turn is disappearing. The BT to me has always been the most satisfying, its timing, the power applied, the projection yielded, where it puts the rider....
I judged a board by how it handled this, but these days it seems the most performance oriented boards cannot be surfed around the bottom turn, and need to be kept on the slope of the face, the bottom/trough to be avoided, like twin fins in weak but fast peeling waves.
So are the boards dicatating the surfing or the surfer's dictating the boards?
A good surfer can ride anything, but what makes a good board visually pleasing to the observer, to you??
It's about having fun, but what happens when fun insults the wave and those observing rider and wave?
In my opinion, a Board which balks on a hard bottom turn deserves derision, even if the rider can avoid the trough, pump pump and launch an Air do some snowboard or skate board trick and them throw a claim to the roarig adulation of Spectators/ observers younger than me.
Or am I just 'Too' old and crusty, at 45?
I watched some young very capable guys in 1 ' to nearly double overhead waves tonight, with binoculars, and every wave they rode seemed as if they simply had to hold off applying significant power to the board to get the projection they required to have a hope of making it to the shoulder. The guys who did set up a beautiful bottom turn and throw down some power, fell flat on their face as the board skipped out, or fell backwards off the tail. But if they did modarate everything like a skateboarder on wet soapy concrete, and then make it to open face, only then did they not look like a capable surfer impersonating a Kook and the board look alive and quick underfoot.
Perhaps they should be forced to surf a single fin without a leash.
Agree/disagree, comments?
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Tuttle Box install Advice needed
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I've been a member on this site for more than 10 years, but this is my first post/question. I've found this site to be such a wealth of knowledge and I want to thank every person who has ever helped answered questions on this forum.
I'm installing a tuttle box on a SUP for a Go Foil hydrofoil. (not mine, can't afford such a thing) There is a good video of an install on youtube of the basic steps to install the box.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8pNdilmXF8
In the video, the person cuts the hole all the way through the deck, installs the box sticking through the deck, grinds the box down, then laminates back over it.
My question: Is it necessary to cut through the top lamination? I've cut the hole through the bottom of the board and cleared away all the foam to the bottom of the deck lam. see pic.
If I leave the deck as is and cut the box to fit correctly into the hole so that it rests on the deck lamination (and epoxied in) will it be strong enough? obviously I'll need to laminate and finish off the bottom as well. It seems like it would save a step and make for a cleaner install.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
John
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Question re. Futures boxes
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Hi all,
I've just done my first Futures instal and it went off without too many dramas. I've now lammed the bottom and will probably get the deck and perhaps even the hotcoat done later today, everything going according to plan.
My question relates to getting the Futures boxes back out from under the glass. Just about every video or written description I've seen says sand the boxes back until they're flush with the rest of the bottom of the board, but I was just wondering what people thought about doing this with a router instead? The sander with coarse grit is a relatively imprecise tool, especially in the hands of a backyard hack like me, whereas the router, if used (carefully) in a controlled environment, can be very precise indeed.
I have a small Makita plunge router that I use for all my fin box installations and it's a great little tool. So, what I was thinking of doing goes a little bit like this:
1. Set up my fin box jig (pictured) over the Futures box allowing for no side-to-side movement.
2. Using a wide bit (18mm), do a single 1-2mm deep pass over the box.
3. Lower the depth by 1mm and do another single pass, and keep doing this until I've reached the desired depth.
4. Repeat for each of the five boxes.
Would this work, or would the high RPM rate, and the resulting heat, mess with the material that the Futures boxes are made out of?
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epoxy resin panels
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Anyone messed with epoxy colored resin panels? any tips on getting them to layout nice and flat? was thinking about maybe thinning the epoxy (rr) with some denatured alcohol or throwing a good bit extra additive f into the mix
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Can anyone help me ID this "vintage" longboard?
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Not sure I can pinpoint it...
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Vintage G&S Board ID help
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I have just purchased a G&S longboard. It is 9' with a triple balsa stringer (center 1/2" outside 1"), blue fin with glassed in box, multiple logos and serial number "0062" on deck side. I would like to know any info on it. (year, model, shaper etc) Thanks in advance!
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Surfing in Oregon
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While this thread probably best belongs in Meet-ups, I know that section gets much less traffic than Here. I just moved to Portland for work and have been down to the coast to surf once already, but would like to have some people to surf with. Anyone in the area and want to meet up?
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Fixing a bad resin color
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So I ordered a log around 2 months ago and I asked my shaper for like a butterscotch yellow-orange resin tint. 3 days after he gave it to the glasser I asked if it was too late to change the color after I saw possibly the coolest color combo I've seen on a log (naturally, I had to at least ask to change it) and he said it wasn't a big deal and was able to tell the glasser before he had started laminating (that wasn't crucial to this topic, but I thought I might as well mention it). Anyways, he sends me this picture today and the orange-yellow is literally nearly highlighter yellow (see attached) and I'm hoping it will look better/less highlighter-y in the not pure-white lighting of a glass shop but if it doesn't, could anyone inform me on how to maybe fix this? I'd like to get the yellow to the intended shade but if that's not possible, I could definitely settle for a black or grey instead. I know some people might like this color (the glasser called it the "big mac special" on their instagram which I thought was actually pretty funny), but I'm really not a fan of it so far. My friend told me he'd help me do a resin panel (I've shaped and glassed 3 board, but have never done a resin panel) but I don't know the best solution. If you have any information/suggestions on how to fix the color, please help me out. Cheers
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Pushfins - fins made from recycled skateboard decks
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Thought these fins looked cool for what they were. Ran across them a while ago but the foils looked a bit rough. Seems he's gotten a lot of practice and quality seems pretty nice. Really intrigued by the fin system bases.
Random related question - has anyone had any success molding Futures bases and attaching them post-foiling, similar to what they are doing with the glass tab?
I was in a composites shop a while ago and saw they were using a high-strength adhesive to bond 2-part molded pieces. I was asking about the strength of that joint and they mentioned it was a lot like woodworking where the glue joint in most cases was stronger than the material it was bonding. Most production Futures appear to be made this way.
I've played with molded Futures bases onto wood fins with poor results.
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Andre Taylor and vans2009
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It all looks good to me. Three pages of new posts in some kind of gook speak posted by Andre Taylor and the Vans crew. Him and his pals are the most prolific posters ever to hit Sways. I'm not clickin' . Are you? I'm sure they are posts about the crew's latest build, rad Asian blanket glass job and how to install North Korean nuclear fin boxes. Why doesn't Trump do something about Andre's Asian hate speech? That!s why we voted for him anyway? Right?? Put an end to rad Asian airs and duck dives. Build a fire wall.
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Big Sur 2017...
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The Plaskett Creek get together might be washed out this year. Hwy 1 has taken extensive damage and is closed indefinitely. http://www.sanluisobispo.com/news/local/community/cambrian/article134263...
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Angular concave vs curved concave
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Anyone tell me pros and cons of an angular concave out the tail of a fish or mini Simmons vs traditional curved concave? I've seen several lately that have what looks like a single deep channel out the tail on an angle like a normal single, but with sharp channel style edges.
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Black Beauty bottom contour vs. Maurice Cole Reverse Vee?
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I am a little confused about the bottom contours from both of these designs. On the CI website, the Al Merrick Black Beauty which is a "reverse vee" board was Tom Curren's title winning board in 1985, yet Maurice Cole invented the reverse vee in 1990. What is the difference between the vee in the bottom of either of these boards?
Also, why isn't this bottom contour used much anymore it seems like having vee in the bottom would create a much more connected board to wave and excel in heavy offshore winds as wind couldn't get underneath the board and hold it up as much like a concave bottom.
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Fun board/ longboard thickness
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Hi everyone,
I'm currently shaping an 8'9" fun board/ longboard and I'm not sure how thick to make the board. I'm about 6'2" - 6'3" and weigh around 225 lb, so I was thinking I'd make the board 3.25-3.5 inches at its thickest. I'm not so sure about the nose and tail thickness though, and thought this community might be able to help out.
Thanks,
JTH
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Epoxy resin and aluminum foil?
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I've seen info here about using foam rollers to do a thin coat of epoxy. I want to mix RR epoxy and then pour into paint roller tray before application to board- Can I line the tray with aluminum foil and not risk contaminating the mix? I would like to re-use trays, and it also seems that the trays are made from PolyStyrene (which it seems that AddF will eat thru). Any problems with epoxy and foil?
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