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An open letter to whom ever is writing all the spam crap here....


Better FCS plug install.

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Hi, Im looking to make a stronger FCS plug install, Im not bothered about the weight, materials, amount of resin or tricky techniques.
What I have tried is to use uncut ( no microbaloons) resin with scrap glass and then the plug on top.
The resin soaks in to the foam to grip more and the glass gives it more strength. But theres a lot of resin under the plug.
The 2.0 version was using part of the foam core I cut out to make the hole and then fit that foam under the plug so it wasn't solid glass. See pic.

Neither technique hasn't failed yet, but does anyone have any other techniques or ideas of how to do this .
Thanks.

Best way to fix partially broken center fin box

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I have replaced side and center fin boxes before but I've never had one break this way before. The submerged boulder caught a 10.5" heritage fin and jacked out of the box forward.

I had one thought of just permanently affixing a fin, glass on, but I wondered if that would work.

Or, is there any other way to remedy this fin box without replacing it?

Low tide find

hot buttered board for P.T., widowmaker sidebites

Show us your wackiest boards

Chris Lundy Single Fin

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I came across a 1980s Single Fin shaped by Chris Lundy. The artist and shaper on the North Shore.
I don't know much about Lundy other than his art.

Can anyone tell me about his shaping?
The board is beat up and I was planning on getting it repaired and surfing it, but if its pretty significant, I don't want to touch it.

Anything you can tell me would be much appreciated.

Much Thanks / Mini Simmions

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Corny post, gonna get trolled, but I have been using Swaylocks archives for years, never posted much myself. I wanted to thank you all for the invaluable knowledge. Swaylocks and it's contributors are a must for any novice shaper, or really any shaper. I really have appreciated being able to interface with some of the best in the industry. I don't know of many other services/sites you can do that with.

Just finished my third board (mini simmions (pics below)) and it's probably my first without any 'major flaws.' Very stoked on it and already gluing up my next blank.


SEARCH for SURF SYSTEMS

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Gentlemen, I am searching for ANY early example of an early SURF SYSTEMS surfboard. It is for a family member of one of the original principles in the company, who has recently passed away. The desire is to obtain a board that his father likely had a hand in creating. Any help will be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU.

Fixing bumpy rail bands

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So... I thought I'd make it this time and build some boards without having to ask questions, but oh well...

I finished shaping a 6'4 singe fin, which went pretty fine. first time used a planer, that went allright-ish. skinning the blank went smooth (I now much prefer to skin my blanks and cut the outline afterwards), I also cut my rail bands with the planer, that went fine as well, and I used the planer for the concaves. final sanding didn't turn out too smooth, but nothing a little spackle won't fix.

So the fish I'm currently working on, I thought, well, Ima do the rails with the surfoam again. turns out, my rails are way bumpy. my outline is fine, it really is "only" the rail bands on the deck side in the middle part of the board.

So my question is, will I be able to fix that without my rails getting too thin? what would you recommend how I approach this - coarse sanding block? fine sandpaper and foam? surfoam? planer?

I have searched the archive, but I mostly got results for bumpy outlines and I found one post of tenderloin tom from 3 years, in which he says that his rail bands aren't bumpy anymore, but that's about it.

Q cell, vs Micro ballons, vs ???

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Was browsing some older posts about possible fillers for a ding repair and Q cell, variations of silica, and the like were the most common for shallow repairs. I had another incident this weekend after running over a ladies board who was kind enough to freeze panic and stay still when she saw me surfing towards her, and when I realised the wave was going to close out and I straighted out, I didn't have enough time to avoid a collision. Her fin gouged a nice 1/2 in deep by 2 inches long hole in the nose rail of my board and I am curious as to what the best method would be to repair it. The posts I viewed were any where from 2-5 years old, and with advancements in shaping practices, I am curious if there has been a common method adapted for said repair. I have no scrap foam lying around, but I think it may be too shallow of a ding to consider unless I were to sand a bunch out.

Drinking the Cool Aide....San Diego Style

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Captain surf ordered an EPS blank from WNC. Had it sent to Keith's house. Keith has lots of templates.......and lots of tools.... Keith and Resinhead and Captain agreed on an outline.....Mrs Stingray found a nice spot in the shade and stayed out of the mess....... Ray and Keith cracked a few beers and sat back......

Thanks for wiping out the SPAM.

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Much thanks to the mod / mods who are now quickly onto these pesky beasts that plague the site with their crappy spam.
Thank you.
Thank you.

SOUTH COAST BLANKS

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...hello,
may be the Aussie members could help on this.
I m looking for impressions about shapers that have been using this foam.
What about in comparison with Surfblanks?
What type of wood for the stringers?
What about the weight in comparison with foam from USA?
Sucks to much resin?
etc

Thanks

Cutlap with 2 layers of glass

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I am doing an EPS/RR epoxy longboard in 2x 6oz deck and single 6oz bottom. I am going to give resin tint/cutlap a try and have found a lot of great info/tips here, but have two questions remaining:

It sounds like I should lam the bottom first- and then the deck- for the two layers of glass on the deck should I just lay/cut them on and glass as if it were a single layer (obviously with more resin)? Or do i need to do one layer at a time?

Also, I have seen that with two layers of deck glass that the first layer gets cut at the rail apex and then the top layer gets wrapped and cut lapped. Wouldn't this cause a line at rail apex when using resin tint? I have been assuming that I should take both deck layers of cloth all the way to the cutlap line- is this correct? If yes, then I guess I need to be ready for a tough zipper cut since there will be 2x 6oz to trim at the tape.


Hobie dogbone fin box

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Help is needed! Working on a project proper with my local shaper and we are having difficulties with the technical aspects of installing a Hobie dogbone fin box. Any help on the installation technique would le be great!!! Thought we had to it figured out but nope! Is it just routed out then ground down to board level or is there some kind of tapered router template????
Help!!!!

Calling the PNW

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Hey fellow humans,

I just moved back to the PNW (Eugene OR) from So Cal. It was a hard move in regards to surfing but an easy move regarding cost of living. I am seeking some fellow surfers who live in Eugene or somewhere in-between that are looking for someone to surf with. I have a friend in Lincoln but I would like to meet more surfers to connect with.

Tape up the corners of your epoxy tips

Shaping room ventilation

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Thanks to Mr Thailkill and others for the inspiration. Of course gravity is the law and particles will sink. So I put the exhaust fan at the bottom and a return at the top. It is a false door than isolates my shaping room. Made out of Masonite. This little fan rocks. I bought some thin cloth and sewed it into a bag and then taped it to the exhaust of the fan.

Glassing the butt crack of a fish

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It bothers me that so many can't glass the butt with enough glass to evenly cover the foam. Because of the arc of the cut fiberglass, the glass doesn't cover the crack evenly unless you add some extra glass. You see this clearly on cutlap fish butts. Here is a pic of one way to do it. Start with a square piece of cloth about 4 inches by 4 inches. Cut it about 3 inches down the middle. Then spread it as shown. I do this on both the top and the bottom.

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