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Old Jacobs Info

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I snagged this old Jacobs off of craigslist yesterday and was hoping someone could help with more info on it. I can't find a number, but it could just be hiding somewhere under all that sunburn. It looks like someone restored it a while ago, there are no soft spots or warp. The only bummer is the fin is gone, only the lam around the fin is left.

Also any advice on restoring it...I'd like to get it back in the water. I figured I'd template the fin, cut off what's there now and glass the new one on. I think I'm going to try to sand off the white repairs on the deck and nose and then re hot coat the whole board.

Thanks for the help


G10 Fins

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Another batch of handmade G10 fins...
Left to right starting at the top row:
Copy of the Akila Aipa twin. Replacing a lost fin.
Pair of 5 9/16" Twinzer mains in Wil Jobson's template.
Pair of 3 1/8" Twinzer canards in Greg Griffin's template.
Pair of 5 1/8" Twinzer mains in Griffin's template.
Pair of 3 1/8" Twinzer canards in Jobson's template.

And, in case you weren't aware, G10 feels SO good under foot.
Get on that!

Build thread - 7.2 bonzer and 7.6 midlength glider

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I always enjoy reading build-threads and always appreciate when people share their process.
Going through sk8ments fish thread this morning reminded me, I could share what I´m building at the moment.
Nothing fancy or extraordinary, but anyhow….

I´m working on a 7.2 bonzer and a 7.6 midlength glider kind of thing.
Both boards for me. I´m only at board 15 by now. Landlocked and not many surfers round here. Let alone any shapers. So more or less messing around without a clue. Any feedback and advise on the shapes or the working process is highly appreciated.

First board is an Bonzer 5 with round pintail.
As I fly across Europe on vacations, I had to use FCS plugs to remove all the fins for travelling.
I´d preferred glass-on runners, but was scared they would not survive aircargo.

Hotwired the EPS blank and trued everything up.
Took my time to figure out the fin layout.
Most dimension can be found and I tried to scale pictures of bonzer boards in the 7.0-7.4 range.
Never done or ridden a bonzer, I´m curious if my layout will work out.


(My EPS blocks are 2m / 6.7 long, so that´s why there is an ugly yellow PU glue line in the tail. I used white pigmented epoxy for the 7.6 glider lateron)

I decided to keep the bottom contours simple with my first try.
Skipped the channel between the runners, would have been hard to pass it between the fusion plugs.

The outline is smooth and eggish, with the wide point slightly forward.
Something like 7.2 x 21.25 or 21.5 I think.

The second board is a 7.6 glider, singlefin pintail. I´ve never ridden or shaped something like this, but the classic beauty of those outlines made me want something like this in my quiver.

As I´m hard on decks/center stringers , I built my shorter boards stringerless.
No hard structures where my legs are, this way dents don´t cause any cracks.
For this longer one I tried a parabolic stringer glue up. Stringers should be outside from where my thigs dent the deck.

This is my first stringer glue up. I remembered Barry Snyder doing outlines with a long router.
So I bought a 80mm cutter for my router, made a masonite template for the stringer curve (basically just a radius of 7500mm).
No room for errors with that scary long cutter, but I took my time and the cut came out really cool.
I bought slightly foaming PU glue, which was a fast setting 5 minutes version.
Prepared everything in advance, but in the end I couldn´t completely avoid making a mess.

After trueing the blank, I was quite pleased how the stringers came out.
Far from a good glue up, but didn´t look as messy as I thought directly after the glue up.

Shaping a stringered blank was new to me. But I enjoyed it a lot. Taking down the woods adds a new aspect to the handshaping.
As expected, the sections where the stringers pierce through the rails need a lot of practice to get right.
The glue stays a little flexible and is hard to take down with the handplane. Maybe I´ll use something harder next time, like gorilla glue or titebond.
I´ll need a lot of practice working with the handplane. And I only got a cheap 5€ handplane right now.
But I´m keen to do other stringered blanks in the future and ordered a better mini handplane, read about how to sharpen the blades and so on.

This is what it looked when roughed out, I thinned the nose and the tail lateron on and refined it over all.

A bit of panel V in the nose, single concave in the middle, double concave in front of the fin, flat behind the fin.
I chined/beveled the rails, quite high in the front, maybe like 40/60 in the middle, hard edge/down rail in the tail. Rails are “eggish”, not to boxy, not thinned and sharp like with displacement hulls.

In the meantime I glassed the bonzer and spackled the glider.
Both are drying in the living room now.

Redwood Rumor..........................

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I have been told of a very interesting two pieces of wood. They are single pieces, slab cut, minimum 10 feet long and 24 inches wide ! They appear (I am told) to be about four or five inches thick. The fellow that told me about them, is going to try to obtain them. He said that if he gets them, he'd give me one, if I would make a big wave gun out of one for him. I can't imagine a single slab of old growth Redwood that large. I also can't imagine how daunting it will be to carve a surfboard out of something like that. I almost hope it doesn't happen. The damn thing might kill me !

New TSJ

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Good article on Skip Frye, with some detailed explanations of his designs. Plenty of board porn.
Here's just part of his 150 board quiver.

PRO QUESTION: How long to shape a blank?

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So I'm building a model to determine how long I spend on a board build. As far as I can tell, I spend about 24 hours actually working. That is basically the time spent in the shop doing stuff which includes all the normal stuff plus clean up. Not exactly Speedy Gonzales.

I think I spend about 5 hours shaping a blank; the largest single time sink in the whole process. This is the time from planshaping to finish sanding of the blank.

When I was younger and more concerned with the actual riding of waves, I had a quiver of boards built by a shaper at Wave Riding Vehicles (WRV) in Point Harbor NC. My shaper, Jim Fuller (RIP), would turn out a shape really quickly and they were always magic boards. I still have two boards from WRV/Fuller from the early 1990's.

How quickly do the pros actually take to shape a blank?

SHAME on Surfermag Forums !!!!

Anybody tried LED lights

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Anybody tried LED lights in their shaping bay? They look interesting as they can be dimmed or brightened.


Using hardware store resin and Q Cell substitute

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I found a number of threads on this and other sites where folks inquired as to the results of fiberglass and resin commonly available at big box construction stores and Hometown hardware stores.
Mostly there were cautionary tales of oily smoky-looking resin, and a lot of homebrew substitutes for Q cell, including talcum powder, sugar, sanding residue, etc.
Having recently acquired a board for $40 that was a good candidate for garage repairs, I found myself in a good position to experiment with hardware store Materials, and decided to take photographs for other folks faced with doing the same.
I bought a 7 foot modern black fish surfboard for $40, with a snapped off nose, serious heel dents, and the usual sorts of dings and crunches.
Today I started by repairing the nose. I used Bondo brand resin and hardener (kit), $12 on the Auto aisle. I also purchased a couple square feet of what looks like 4oz cloth. Nothing new here as far as technique, except that I added talcum powder to the resin to try to mimic Q cell. I feel that it worked pretty good, achieving a consistency thicker than resin, but not nearly as stiff as peanut butter.
The resin is not clear, but looks like motor oil that has been recently changed. For this repair I happened to have a can of red spray paint on the shelf that I used to blend the repair.
I had considered trying a variety of backyard pigment or tint experiments, but I will leave that for another day.

What kind of filter for removing the vapor, odor, gas of pu resin?

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Hi Guys! Good Morning Everybody!

I've got a question, and i was looking for it on the page but i didnt find anything.

So i just made my new room for glassing (inside room, so there is no ventilation) and im planing isolate entirely the whole room(its like 11ftx6ftx9ft, so its a small room), but i want to put a small extraction system inside. i dont want nervous neighbors because of the smell, and also want to care of my health. So my idea is applying ventilators on the wall and the produce a current inside and a small extractor which attached to a house with active carbon filter(i read that this kind of filter works pretty good in the case of vapors, odors, gases).
Anyone has some experience? Or can anyone tell me a good solution?

Swayz link not working?

Asymmetrical Board Design

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I'm thinking about an asymmetrical fish. I understand that the basics of asym design is the heel side is pulled in at the tail. Would it make sense to pull in the heel side all the way through to the nose? I made a template and one of my friends commented that it was a one way board and the toe side would drag in the water when surfing backside, but honestly I don't think he is very qualified. What do you guys think?

Relief Cuts on Displacement Hull Nose? Help!

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Glassed 3 displacement hull boards now & the noses always get away from me when it comes to making relief cuts. These are sharp noses with displacement running about 1.5' on the hull side blending into a modified v hull (slight). I've ended up just cutting 3-4 seperate pieces and basically patching the thing...there has to be a better way. Advice much appreciated folks. First time poster.

Advise on Vintage Boards Value

Build thread- Board #7

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Hi Swaylocks.

This will be #7 for me. As usual, it's a modification of boards I've shaped in the past. This time we're working with my small wave template, which has been through 2 iterations already. There's been about 5 years between V1 and now so I've learned a lot about this sort of board between 2 of them and riding other shapes. I think/hope this will be a winner.


posting pictures on swaylocks

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Wanted to ask a quick question, and review a few points, since pictures are a HUGE part of what makes this forum tick.

First, the question. We used to be able to embed pics in the post with html (the picture's URL) but it seems that option has disappeared? Has anyone figured out a way to do this?

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Second, the review is regarding picture size.

5 years ago drzoidberg wrote:

If you're not resizing the image before it's posted to the web, you're uploading a huuuuge file. Usually forums and websites compress and reduce the image to be displayed in a post, that downsizing can give wierd effects if the image was 3000 pixels wide and was quickly brought down to 800

Picture files that are in the MB size load slower, often show sideways or upside down, and are bigger than needed (when you upload pics it will tell you the size in MB or KB). I will often resize them down to KBs, which is a much more reasonable size. But I only do it when I have time, just to make the forum a little more user friendly, and get the pics loading right side up.

If you see a thread where the pics are sideways or upside down, then next time you look they're right side up, its probably because I downloaded them to my computer, reduced the size, then uploaded them back in their thread.

To avoid this, you can set your camera to a lower resolution, or edit them with MS Paint, and reduce them. You can even crop them with your phone software.

To illustrate, I will post some (MB sized) pics below that I pulled at random from the forum, followed by their resized 35% (to KB) counterparts. A few I cropped just a bit, as well. Using MS Paint, its easy peazy, anyone can do it.

UV cure polyester resin and neon lights

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Hi folks,
I have a question about UV cure resin and neon lights. I wanted to know if neon-based lights make dry UV resin?
I actually do the lamination inside my garage which has neon-based lights. I heard one day that these kinda of lights make UV cured. In the doubt I work in the dark. I wanted to know if it is true or not.

Aloha.

harbour drifter model

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Anyone have experience riding the Harbour Difter that could comment on the ride.

I am typically riding logs in New England, so looking for a shorter board to take out in heavier surf.

Thanks!

cleaning my sealed blank before lam, I have to get it right cause this board will have my mates ashes in the resin.

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Soooooo i came into the space under a building at work where my gear is stored for the school projects we have been getting into our recycled board stuff.

To my utter dismay I realised where the freshly sealed blank was stored was under a "deck" and not a floor, there had been some heavy dew or a cleaner had hosed off the deck.

The blank was dirty evidence of dirty water dripping onto it then drying out, I am not sure if I can really clean it. The eps been sealed with epoxy there are little holes in it where the epoxy has soaked into the foam.

I have already cut the cloth
But........ maybe I should roll it up and try to clean it. I gave it a light sand, but I'm super worried that there could be all sorts of oils and crap on it. I'm also concerned about water getting into the blank if my sealer job isn't perfect.

Any tips??????

Also realised my half decent shears were at home so I have used the worst scissors in history. It's a shamozle.

The first picture is the perfectly sealed white tinted blank, the next few are the blanks after it got dirty, i know i should not have put the cloth on it yet.

I was so devo that all logic went out the window I was in denial and thought I could forge ahead but I think I need to bite the bullet, roll up the cloth, fin patch and funky carbon included and wash the entire blank. But I have no idea of the best way to go about it?

Erle Pedersen Video

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