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Adding expanding foam to a hollow wood board!
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My first build (of two) was a 9' 6" SUP a couple of years ago.
Too heavy, not the best for messing about on canals, hard to surf but it's mine and I made it!
I've had a number of cracks and leaks in the time I've had it from hard use. I thought I had them all sorted, even using the swimming pool at work to try check for more leaks!
However, went out the other day for a little paddle and popped open the deck hatch to get the fin key that I store there - this was the sight! The mould I'm not too concerned about as some is from where I've had it wet inside before but clearly this time it has been damp inside without realising for quite some time! Now it's caused the stringer to start to delaminate. (Sadly I didn't know of Brad's idea to coat all the internals in glue when I made this)
[img]https://s25.postimg.org/vih1jhi8v/IMG_5779.jpg[/img]
While out I did a bit of hopping on the board and it felt like more of the board was separate from the stringer - clonking!
So I'm not toooooooo worried. It will be sad if I can't actually get surfing on this (I've not mastered it yet!) and I think it will probably survive enough to just use as a second board when out on the canals in a low stress environment.
I'm considering the options after drying it as best as possible.
Would putting as much expanding foam as possible inside be a reasonable idea or absolutely daft? I thought it could be a good way to add support.
Adding more weight is a concern but I can't see an alternative.
Any thoughts welcome!
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Longboard Build Thread
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I thought it was time to put up another build thread. This is a 9'10". I pulled out a template I had from a couple of other boards for the profile. This template is 10'1" I will take most of the length out of the tip so that rocker number will be lower.
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Pre shaped blanks vs standard blanks
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Hey,
I am an absolute newbie to shaping, going to try and shape my first board soon.
I am wondering, with a pre shaped (machine cut) blank, what do I actually need to do to it before glassing?
Is a pre shaped blank just the outline, and I still need to shape the rails/add in any concave/rocker etc?
Should I go with a pre shaped blank for my first board, or just get a standard blank?
Any help would be great!
Thanks
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FCS II Install issues
Topics:
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First of all I want to thank everyone here for the valuable information shared on this website. I'm building my first board (5-7 epoxy minisimmons) and this site has been a wealth of knowledge. During the build I've made a LOT of mistakes, but I think I've finally made it to my last mistake. I've searched high and low in the archives and couldn't find any information specifically addressing my issue. Here's what went wrong:
When installing my fcs II plugs i set my router depth properly, test fit the plugs, and then brushed epoxy all over the bottom of the plugs and in the routed hole. I did NOT pour epoxy in the hole and allow for overflow. Due to this lack of resin, my plugs never raised the 1/16" to sit flush with the board. Compounding on this, I didn't notice several large air bubbles between my cloth and the plugs during lamination.
Now I've reached my "sand the hotcoat stage" (after numerous other mess ups). Because my plugs are too shallow I ended up sanding to foam (!) in some small areas around the plug when trying to expose the flange. In addition, there were areas of unsaturated cloth (from the bubbles) which I cut away with a razor. I probably could've tried saturating with resin once exposed rather than cutting away but sometimes I just get caught up in what I'm doing. The way I see it I have three options (listed from best fix to worst):
1. Route out the plugs, set new plugs to the proper height, lam on football patches + a deck patch, hotcoat, sand
2. Lay fiberglass patches on either side of the plug and try to push them + resin down into the air bubble voids. Make these patches large enough to cover any exposed foam but try to avoid covering the fin plug openings as sanding those flush will be almost impossible without hitting foam again.
3. pour resin into the voids and fiberglass over any exposed foam. Cross fingers and replace fin boxes propery if/when they pop out.
Anyone have any experience with this issue? Maybe there's an easy fix I'm not thinking of? Like I said - this is my first board so I'm not to bummed about it - it's been a learning experience. FYI - I'm only using FCS (original) fins in this board so I'm not too worried about getting the flange height perfect as the screws should properly secure the fins. Also - I managed to get all finbox stickers off - the pictures show two of the fin boxes with stickers on as I had spares and was about to start pouring resin before I decided to take a night to sleep on it. Much thanks to everyone!
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Shaping a 9'4" Triple Stringer......
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Hello there all,
Firstly I'd like to thank all those who contribute their hard earned knowledge, without you I'd be flying blind!
My next blank on the blocks is a triple stringer 9'8" Y from US blanks with dark wood stringers offset from middle stringer 6". The plan shape is to be a fairly traditional square tail. Im giving it a wooden tail block and glassing it clear with Volan. I have searched the archives and have gathered a decent amount of information about how to tackle this, I also have Jim Phillips dvd which has a section on finishing triple stringers...
So I would gather the way to go is to do as much shaping as i possibly can with the planer and then finish with my super sharp little plane / convex sanding blocks?
Questions
- How does one cut out the outline? I usually use my handsaw. Will this work? or should I use a jigsaw/circular saw etc?
- Can someone explain a good method for blending/screening rails?
Any information / tips on this subject would be greatly appreciated . Thanks so much for your time.
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In search of left side futures keel fin
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throwing out a hail mary and if this isn't the right place, i'll delete the thread (but the "surfshop" forum seems so dead, there's no point in posting over there).
i found a boat of a pop-out fish (6'10" x 22 1/2" by 2 7/8") for $25. it's missing the left-side generic futures keel fin (left side if the board is standing up and you're looking at the deck).
if anyone has a single left-side futures keel, let me know and i'm happy to pay for it/shipping. i don't even care if it matches the right one i have. if anyone has a pair of futures keels they want to let go, i'm into that too.
i can get a set of crappy dorsal keels for under $40 if need be as i just want to see what a massive (and kind of weird) board like this is like in the water. i'm not looking to spend $100 on new, quality keels for this jalopy, so please don't take offense : )
thanks!
gordof
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First board needs first major repair.
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After shaping a pu/pe board with the help of you all I have a problem.
The board had glassed on quad fins but after the second surf i noticed a crack along one of the fin bases. I repaired it but after the next surf i noticed another crack on another fin base. So i had a closer look and the pressure of flexing the fin is delaminating the cloth underneath it and this is what is causing the problem.
I think the only way to solve this is to do it right and strip the glass completely off the whole fin area and redo a 6oz repair and then a 6oz fin patch to stiffen the whole area up then reglass on the fins.
So I striped it off but peeling of the glass has left me with a few craters and a rough surface. The area directly under each fin has really pulled away a chunk so I am wondering how to go about filling these spots as its far too deep for spackle and i want it stronger. Cutting out and splicing in new foam is a possibility but will be very hard. Could i use an epoxy and microballons mix in a thick paste?
Any advice welcome.
Board number 2 is already underway. hahaha
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Bill Caster Restoration. Does anybody have any history on this particular board?
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200 hrs of work. Keith found it at swap meet in SD, I fix it up a little bit. New nose. new bottom, 32 dings repaired and sanded as flat as Stone Burners sense of humor. Yes its got a number but who cares. If you have seen this board you in the water in San Diego...tell me about it?
10'2" yellow/ black fin, yellow/black HD tail block. yello / black stripes.....dude likes his yellow black.
Resinhead the Great
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Island Surfer
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Check out this rare red craft: rides like a heavy but buoyant log down the line picks up speed. It has a hard to see "Island Surfer" logo on deck. Any history, age, shaper or stories that would help explain it would be greatly appreciated.
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Large deck delamination
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Forums:
Hi all,
I have an old funboard with a large section of the deck that has delaminated.
It is roughly 4' long and spans the width of the board.
I already cut out most of the glass with a dremel, but left one side intact.
My plan is to cut a little more back and try to fold it over or just remove
it completely in a few sections. Then lay laminating resin down and fold it back down
with some weights on it. Sand it and add a new layer of glass over the top.
I would like to reuse the old glass in order to preserve the pigment.
Do I need to even out the foam with q-cell first and should I sand
the bottom of the old glass for a better bond? Im not sure if this is the right approach.
Forgive me if this question has been posted before, I just have not seen any answers with this specific repair.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
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Looking for used board around Dana Point
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Hi All,
I am heading out to Dana Point from 8/20-8/31 and looking for a used board to rent/buy. Normally I would just bring my own board, but the family is coming and adding a surfboard to all of the gear we are taking is too much.
I am 6'5 245 and normally ride a hybrid that is 7'6 x 22.5 x 3.5 shaped by Mahady. Looking for something similar to this, preferably futures quad/tri setup.
Let me know if anyone has something they are willing to rent/sell.
Thanks very much
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Lam resin leash cup
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My high ass used laminating resin instead of surfacing resin while installing the leash cup. Any advice on how to make her sand flush?
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Interesting flex fin product
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Came across this while looking for adjustable fin plugs. Not my cup of tea, but the idea allows for some good experimenting. Now if they had some single fins then maaaaaaaaybe...
https://fluxfins.com/
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4WFS - Making fins
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I'm looking into these fins and found that they enable a lot of versatility. I was planning on making fins for the setup, but was thrown off by the fins having built in cant. From what I read their fins have a 4 degree cant built in. Does this mean that a 0 degree sleeve has -4 cant to off set the 4 degree cant built into the fin?
In other word putting a standard fin, with altered tabs to fit, in the pods would give a -4 degree cant?
4 degree sleeve= 0 cant
and so on...?
Please enlighten me.
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The Surfboard Design Process
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I began designing surfboards, (drawing pictures of them) sixty years ago. I shaped my first surfboard, a year later. One of the most useful tools I had, is little used (if at all) today. That tool, was invaluable to me, in understanding various shapes, and designs. It was especially useful when designing, and evaluating fins. What was that tool, you ask? (drum roll.................) The slide rule. Long ago replaced by the hand held calculator. The slide rule was invaluable in helping me grasp the importance of understanding ratio/proportion aspects of surfboard design, and foil. Don't fall into the trap of specific measurements, as it will change as other measurements change, like board length. Same thing for surface area (of the surfboard) to weight ratio. That relationship will tell you volumes about the kind of performance to expect from a given board design. One of my early mentors, design wise, was an aeronautical engineer, that was a regular at WindanSea, in the mid/late 1950's. My point? Really give some thought to what you are trying to accomplish. Think it through. Draw some pictures, if you need to.
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Looking for suggestions on fin repair (hollow handl built SUP)
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Hello members of SwayLock's. My husband spent many months building this beautiful wooden SUP for me and today I hit a rock, damaged one of the fins and made a hole. It immediately started taking on water. I have no idea how to go about fixing it or what the best options even are. If anyone has any advice I'd be ever so grateful. (I am going to attach some photos)
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Epoxy hotcoat peeling in areas-noob fail
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Thought I'd throw this out there to the swaylocks universe to cop some scathing replies from legendary builders about where I've gone wrong.
This build is riddled with faults, but this one in particular I'm not sure of how to deal.
Taped up a pin line (which bled yayyy!) and as I pulled the tape off the hot coat came with it but only in parts. I scuffed and cleaned before hotcoating bit obviously not enough. Next time I'll do the "hotcoat when lam is still tacky" thing.
I'm using Trojan epoxy laminating resin, it's the second time I've used it. UV stabilised lalala. Using it cause it's cheap (I know I know probably should use a proper surfboard one etc etc)
It's onto balsa over a low density EPS foam.
Not sure whether to sand back to where it grips, clean and re hotcoat, or just sand back to where it grips and put and acrylic seal coat cause I cannot be arsed at this point and plan on trying to destroy it trying airs etc.
Any ideas?
Attached is a pic, thanks in advance for the knowledge.
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Hansen Demonstrator 70s?
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any info appreciated. 8'6"
Thanks.
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Mike "Frenchy" Benet & BLUE SURF-ARI 1967
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I believe this footage : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az7dseB4DN0
is from BLUE SURF-ARI 1967. Included is footage of a guy known as Frenchy, who I believe is Mike Benet. Does anyone known anything about him?
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