Hi I'm going to shape a board with this outline and I was wondering if a single to double concave would work and how depth the concave should be ? Do you have any advice for the thickness at the tip of the tail and at the tip of the nose ? The board is going to be 1 14/15" thick and I want that it to be 18.5 liters
Thank you !
go there, amazing site for current and future conditions. hope it is accurate. ha
Hello everyone,
a friend of a friend is selling a surfboard and wants to give me first dibs before she posts it on craigslist . I am not one who is good at bargaining and not an expert on surfboard prices. can someone help me out on what is fair for the price of this board. asap
Hi Guys,
I'm currently shaping my first longboard but having difficulty coming up with a glassing schedule. I weigh 90kgs and want the board to last. Do you have any suggestions? I was thinking 6 bottom, 6+6 deck.
Kind of curious here knowing that many of us are not full-time shapers, have families, other responsibilities. Wanted to maybe start a discussion; especially since recently it has been hard to find time & space myself.
- Firstly how do you find time to shape amongst the tediousness of day-to-day life?
- What odd spaces have you had to shape out of garages, tents, outside etc?
- Any tips or life hacks you have learned glassing, and shaping on a time and $$ restriction?
I just finished up my first lamination- 6oz tinted RR fast on EPS deck- It turned out fine and I am happy overall, but I got way too fixated on the laps/wetting the rails that there are some spots with excess resin on the flats (where you cannot see weave)- the deck flats started gelling while I was messing with the rails/laps so I was hesitant to pull more resin out to the rails after I had the laps wet/tucked. I plan to now glass/cutlap the bottom of the board and then go back over the deck with a second layer of 6oz clear. Should I sand the deck lamination (obviously the tint is darker in the excess resin areas)? Or should I just live with it and not risk sanding into the cloth?
Sometimes the simplest of dings can be the hardest to figure out. Just after advice/opinions on what to do with this ding on the deck.
Do I a) fill it with resin
b) resin then glass cloth over the top
c) dig out old glass and fill with q cell or foam chunk/wedge
d) anything else??
I've fixed quite a few dings before but it's never too late to learn new/better techniques.
Thanks in advance
Just found a radio interview with Larry Allison, who was on the Hotseat (http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/shapers-hotseat-larry-allison-aka-probox...) some time ago.
I know not everyone likes the Sups here, but i think its definetely worth listening.
https://standuppaddletheworld.com/2017/01/27/larry-allison-master-of-rac...
I want to do a fabric inlay for a tail batch on the bottom of a board with a full tint/pigment bottom lam.
Im thinking i should lam bottom with 1 layer of 6 oz and my tint/pigment, tape off and do my inlay for tail patch, and then cap it all with a layer of 4 0z wrapping to the deck.
My question is when i cut the inlay on top of the first bottom lam, is it necessary to do a small cheater coat up to the inlay cut line and then feather/sand flush before i cap with the 4 oz so that there is not a big ridge to hit when i do final sand?
thanks sways!
hello again,
I damaged my center fin as you guys can see in the pictures(first time fin destruction). I have fixed all my rail dings, done tail dings, nose dings, repairs on the bottom, you get the picture, but never a full fin box repair. it does look like the plugs will need to be replaced. my question is, how difficult is this project? what would the price range to fix a repair like this? San Francisco ding repairs tend to be pretty steep so I want to determine if I can tackle this job. thanks again for all of your advice.
I made my first board about 5 months ago. EPS blank, the ones you can get online and glue them up together with a wood stringer. Used Resin Research epoxy. I was just looking at the board today (havent used it in a while), and there is a slight indent along the stringer on the entire board, top and bottom. It's not extreme looking, you can just feel that its slightly sunken right where the stringer is only. This was definitely not there before. It was flat and smooth. Any thoughts on what caused this and how to prevent in the future?
I glassed it in a 60 degree basement so cure temp is the only thing i can think of... Searched the archives and cant find anything on this. Thanks!
I know there is not often anything new under the sun so this shouldn't come as a surprise.
For those who have seen The Surfers Journal Biography video on Cheyne Horan, you may recall seeing some other strange boards under his arm which weren't the Lazor Zaps that he is most associated with.
Here is one of those of his personal boards from the mid to late 1980's.
it is not too dissimilar to the Tomo Modern Planing Hull designs such as the Vanguard and Evo in its outline (ignoring the nose shape of course). Apply some modern rails, thickness, fin set up and bottom contours, and you wouldn't be a million miles away.
I can tell you that the "Spam-bot" struck at 3:00 AM West Coast USA time.
https://vimeo.com/120554674 .....Dick Van....going strong
Ahoy Swaylockians,
When I install a Single fin box (10.5 FU) I always laminate a patch or two of fiberglass over the entire box after I grind the box down flush with the bottom and sand the hotcoat. I do this by taping over the slot in the box,Laminate patches, then I cut the outline of the tape with a razor, hotcoat, then peel out the tape. Then I sand that bit of hotcaot, retape the slot, then gloss. This method has worked well for me but I have heard rumor that you can laminate patches right over the finbox without taping off the slot. Then after gloss you can use a small flush trim bit to route out the fiberglass. So is it true that when laminating patches over the finbox that resin will not drip into the finslot? I don't see how this can be but I have heard that it won't drip in as long as you don't use too much resin when laminating. I am just a little scared to try this because I don't want to ruin a finbox install and possibly have to re-install a finbox if I blow it. I probably should just go for it but I am a chicken I guess. If any of you could confirm this technique for me that would be amazing. Thanks again Swaylocks and may there be waves wherever you are!
I acquired a 9'3 Kahuna D Fin (60's pop out) here in Milwaukee Wi, and want to get it out on the lakes. Trying to decide if I go full restoration or just patch it up and leave it's character. Let me know what you guys think. One of the panels is peeling up pretty badly.
Wanting to make a trip down to baja at the end of fishing season this year, for the month of October. From what I have researched the best times for SUR is in the summer months when the outer sections of the summer hurricanes brush the cape. I am looking at either Juanico, or further north into Norte at one of the sisters. For anyone who has made the trip before in this time of year,
any recommendations?
Am I going to have to make the trip last minute when I see a storm coming? How about for Norte what is required there?
General advice for a first timer? aside from typical things to be expected like respecting locals, don't drive at night, don't be flashing bling (not that my broke ass has much) etc.
Help contour 11' longboard
I'm looking for suggestions on shaping a long board.
I'm going to shape a 11' longboard.
I'm 6'2" 250 pounds and fit. I want a board that will get me in the wave faster. I want to develop a board that is strictly used in knee to waist high waves east coast small mushy waves.
So I want to catch the wave with ease and nose ride.
I am looking for ideas for the bottom contour of the board.
Nose rocker 5"
Tail rocker 3 1/4
Nose @ 12" 191/2"
Center 26"
Tail @ 12" 17 1/2
I was thinking 60/40 rails.
Possible nose concave?
Flat middle and tail?
Or vee in tail?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Anyone in Australia who could answer this?
Looked in Archives but latest post was still 7 years old.
Am looking for a good-sized jug of PU Solarez, not just the weeny ding-repair tubes.
?
Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVSfgbflHfU
DUNGEONS - Hout Bay, South Africa
MAVERICKS - Half Moon Bay, San Francisco
TEAHUPPO - Tahití, French Polynesia
JAWS - Peahí, Hawaii
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